Geology may hold the key to global success for Hungarian wines
Hungarian wine producers are turning to science to elevate their craft — and their global reputation — by exploring how geology, specifically loess soil, influences grape cultivation and wine quality.
Experts gathered recently in Szekszárd for the inaugural International Loess Terroir Conference, hosted at the Szekszárd Knowledge Center. The event was led by the University of Szeged’s GeoTerroir Interdisciplinary Research Group, based at the university’s Institute of Geosciences.
The conference focused on loess — a fine, wind-blown sedimentary rock — and its unique role in shaping terroir. Found in key Hungarian wine regions like Tokaj, Villány, and the southern shores of Lake Balaton, loess is rich in minerals that benefit both grapevines and soil composition. Its qualities make it a valuable asset not just for agriculture, but also for understanding long-term climate trends.
“GeoTerroir is about connecting the dots between geology, topography, and climate — past, present, and future,” said Prof. Dr. Elemér Pál-Molnár, head of the GeoTerroir Group and the Institute of Geosciences. “By narrowing our focus to the micro-level — specific parcels or plots — we gain insights that can help winemakers better understand and express the uniqueness of their vineyards.”
Pál-Molnár and his team aim to provide a scientific foundation for what has long been regarded as traditional or intuitive knowledge in viticulture. By analyzing soil chemistry, rock composition, and isotopic data, researchers are offering new explanations for why certain regions yield distinct flavors and profiles in wine.
Dr. Gábor Újvári, DSc, a senior researcher at the HUN-REN Institute for Geological and Geochemical Research, stated that Hungarian scientists have been studying loess since the 1960s. His current work focuses on its geochemical and isotopic makeup to understand climate evolution over the past several hundred thousand years.
“These sediments are mostly a legacy of the Ice Ages, punctuated by warmer periods that formed fossil soils,” Újvári said. “They help us reconstruct dramatic changes in temperature and precipitation — critical context for growers adapting to climate variability.”
While terroir is often associated with wine, Pál-Molnár said the concept could extend to other crops — from coffee and olives to local Hungarian varieties such as Szatmár apples and Beszterce plums. However, it is wine that has drawn the most international attention and scientific inquiry.
“Geology doesn’t make wine better or worse,” he added, “but understanding it can raise the level of craftsmanship and storytelling. That, in turn, can elevate how consumers and markets perceive Hungarian wines.”
As winemakers seek new ways to differentiate themselves globally, the fusion of tradition with scientific rigor may become Hungary’s secret ingredient, rooted firmly in the ground beneath their vines.
Source: University of Szeged
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